Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m.

2012-05-17

Nepal

Tibet

Bhutan

India

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Lying alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley Mt. Ama Dablam (6,812m) has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world as well as an ornament of the Himalayas in Nepal. High on her southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam" literarily meaning "Mother and her Necklace". That Ama Dablam, which does not even attain 7000m in elevation, is famous probably due to its strange, distinctive shape as well as its visibility from any point along Imja Khola; offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest.

Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions. Although the height is only 6812m Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Base Camp (4950 meters) to Advanced Base camp (5500m): Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long ridge-slope; cross a boulder field and scramble up rock slopes to reach the SW ridge where we will place advanced base camp

Advanced Base camp to Camp 1 (5700 meters): We scramble across a large ridge system, which lies at the head of the Mingbo valley. The slope is steep here, but the climbing is not technical. We place our tent at the base of a large boulder on the ridge proper.

• Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m): We climb along a horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles (Severe or 5.6) gaining only 100m vertical. The exposure is huge, with especially massive drop-offs on the north side of the ridge. The climbing is mostly enjoyable with a good quality of granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower (two pitches Severe, or 5.5), above which we place Camp 2 on ledges and a rock pinnacle. Camp 2 may also be a bivouac, if the limited tent spaces are already taken.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6230 m): A steep snow ridge is climbed to the Grey Tower, a 20m rock step (Severe, or 5.6). Then 3 pitches in an ice chute are climbed to regain the ridge and climb the second rock step to the mushroom ridge. This is followed to the upper face where camp 3 is made on a broad snow and rock terrace to the side of the Dablam. Camp 3 is often a bivouac.

Camp 3 to Summit (6812m): 2 pitches of dramatic 40+ degree ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach the fluted snowfields that lead to one of the world’s finest summits, with stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Himal.

Fact
Itinerary
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Elevation	22, 349 feet / 6,812 meters
Location	Everest region of Nepal
Latitude: 28° 43′ 37″	Longitude: 87° 28′ 13″
Best season for climbing	April, May, late September, October and November
Year First Climbed	1961 March 13 via South-West Ridge
First Climber(s)	Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward & Wally Romanes
Convenient Center(s) Entry/Exit:	Namche Bazaar Lukla (Khumbu Region)
Nearest Major Airport	Kathmandu(minor: Lukla or Phaplu)
Easiest Summit Route	South-West Ridge
Itinerary type	Fixed / Customized
Accommodations	Lodge / Camping
Trek grade	Strenuous
Total days	30 + 6 = 36 days
Total royalty	US$ 2,000 up to 7 members & additional each US$ 300
Garbage deposit	US$ 2000 refundable
Air rescue deposit	US$ 3000.00 for a group (Refundable if not used)
Air fare	Current fare applicable if required
Liaison Officer charge	Depending on the size of group
Climbing Guide fee	Depending on the size of group
For detailed program and price	Mail to: info@expeditionnepal.com

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla 2860m. by flight then trek to Phakding 2622m.
Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazaar 3440m.
Day 06: Namche – Acclimatization & rest.
Day 07: Namche Bazaar – Thyangboche 3867m.
Day 08: Thyangboche – Ama Dablam Base Camp 4600m.
Day 09-22: Climbing period for Ama Dablam expedition 6812m.
Day 23: Clean up Base Camp Thyangboche 3867m.
Day 24: Ama Dablam Base camp – Thyangboche.
Day 25: Thyangboche – Namche Bazaar.
Day 26: Namche Bazaar – Phakding.
Day 27: Phakding – Lukla then transfer to Tea-house Lodge.
Day 28: Early flight back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 29: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 30: Transfer to airport for your onward journey.

• All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
• 5 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
• Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
• Peak permit fee.
• Full board basis during the trekking.
• All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
• Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
• Base camp tents for members and staff.
• Per Person 50 KG. Equipments luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
• National Park Conservation Fee.
• Air fare: KTM/Lukla/ KTM & domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
• Satellite phone (Pay calls).
• Visa extension.
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
• Agency service charges.

• Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Airfare from / to your country.
• Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
• Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
• Service above Base Camp.
• Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
• Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
• Climbing Guide (Sherpa).
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
• Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
• Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
• Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
• International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
• Tips and climbing bonus.
• Garbage deposit US $ 2000.00 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.

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Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m.

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