A
History of Everest

Peak XV:
Mount Everest once went by the pedestrian name of Peak
XV among Westerners. That was before surveyors established
that it was the highest mountain on Earth, a fact that
came as something of a surprise - Peak XV had seemed lost
in the crowd of other formidable Himalayan peaks, many
of which gave the illusion of greater height.
Everest, Mount:
Everest, Mount, peak, 29,028 ft (8,848 m) high, on the border
of Nepal and Tibet, in the central Himalayas lies in Nepal.
It is the highest elevation in the world, called Sagarmatha
("Goddess of the Sky") in Nepal and Chomolungma
("Goddess Mother of the World") in Tibet. It is
named in English and received its official name in 1865
in honor of Sir George Everest, the British Surveyor General
(1790–1866, British surveyor, b. Breconshire, Wales,
UK) Worked on the trigonometrically survey in India from
1806 to 1843 who had mapped the Indian subcontinent. He
had some reservations about having his name bestowed on
the peak, arguing that the mountain should retain its local
appellation, the standard policy of geographical societies.
He became superintendent of the survey in 1823 and surveyor
general of India in 1830. He was knighted in 1861.
It was first climbed on
May 29, 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and
Tenzing Norgay from Nepal reached the summit. The body of
George H. L. Mallory, who died in an earlier attempt (1924),
was found on the mountain in 1999.
The Great Trigonometrically
Survey Arbitrates:
In 1852 the Great Trigonometrically Survey of India measured
Everest's elevation as 29,002 feet above sea level. This
figure remained the officially accepted height for more
than one hundred years. In 1955 Mount Everest was adjusted
by a mere 26 feet to 29,028 (8,848 m).
The Andes Muscle
In On the Action:
Before the Survey of India, a number of other mountains
ranked supreme in the eyes of the world. In the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries, the Andean peak Chimborazo was
considered the highest. At a relatively unremarkable 20,561
feet (6,310 m), it is in fact nowhere near the highest,
surpassed by about thirty other Andean peaks and several
dozen in the Himalayas. In 1809, the Himalayan peak Dhaulagiri
(26,810 ft.; 8,172 m) was declared the ultimate, only to
be shunted aside in 1840 by Kanchenjunga (28,208 ft.; 8,598
m), which today ranks third. Everest's status has been unrivaled
for the last century-and-a-half, but not without a few threats.
Everest Undergoes
a Growth Spurt:
Everest's official height was revised in 1999. On May 5,
1999, a team of nine climbers summited Everest, armed with
state-of-the-art satellite measuring devices. Six months
later the results of their survey were announced as of Nov.
11, 1999, the new official height of Mt. Everest was announced
by the National Geographic Society to be as 29,035 feet
(8,850 meters) - six feet or two meters higher than the
last official (1955) measurement.
It is remarkable how accurate
all the official measurements of Everest have been. Conducted
147 years earlier, the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India
in 1852 recorded Everest's height at 29,002 feet--a mere
33 feet off the mark.
Of Metrics and
Mountains:
The new height was determined by using satellite-based technology:
the Trimble Global Positioning System (GPS). A team of seven
climbers measured the mountain from the summit on May 5,
1999. The data was collected from various GPS satellite
receivers - one of which had to be placed in bedrock - at
the very top of Everest. It took the climbers a number of
attempts over several years until they were able to successfully
set up the equipment at the summit.
The Third Pole:
Once explorers had reached the North and South Poles, the
next geographical feat to capture the international imagination
was Everest, often called the Third Pole.
Into the Death
Zone:
Although not considered one of the most technically challenging
mountains to climb (K2 is more difficult), the dangers of
Everest include avalanches, crevasses, ferocious winds up
to 125 mph, sudden storms, temperatures of 40°F below
zero, and oxygen deprivation. In the “death zone”—above
25,000 feet—the air holds only a third as much oxygen
as at sea level, heightening the chances of hypothermia,
frostbite, high-altitude pulmonary edema (when the lungs
fatally fill with fluid) and high-altitude cerebral edema
(when the oxygen-starved brain swells up). Even when breathing
bottled oxygen, climbers experience extreme fatigue, impaired
judgment and coordination, headaches, nausea, double vision,
and sometimes hallucinations. Expeditions spend weeks, sometimes
months, acclimatizing, and usually attempt Everest only
in May and October, avoiding the winter snows and the summer
monsoons.
Mount Everest is the highest
mountain in the world. Its elevation of 29,035 feet (8,850
meters) was determined using GPS satellite equipment on
May 5, 1999. It was previously believed to be slightly lower
(29,028 feet /8,848 meters), as determined in 1954 by averaging
measurements from various sites around the mountain. The
new elevation had confirmed by the National Geographic Society
(See the National Geographic Society's Mountain Everest
site for more information).
The first seven attempts
on Everest, starting with a reconnaissance in 1921, approached
the mountain from Tibet, where a route to the summit via
the North Col and North Ridge seemed possible. All were
unsuccessful. George Mallory, who spearheaded the first
three expeditions, lost his life with Andrew Irvine during
a failed ascent in 1924. Unsuccessful attempts continued
through 1938, then halted during World War II. By the war's
end, Tibet had closed its borders, and Nepal, previously
inaccessible, had done the opposite. Starting in 1951, expeditions
from Nepal grew closer and closer to the summit, via the
Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, over the Geneva Spur to
the South Col, and up the Southeast Ridge. In 1953 Edmond
Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit.
Since the first successful
ascent, many other individuals have sought to be the first
at various other accomplishments on Everest, including many
alternative routes on both the north and south sides. Italy's
Reinhold Messner has climbed Everest twice without oxygen,
once in four days. He is also the first to solo climb Everest,
which he did in 1980. Ten years earlier, Yuichiro Miura
of Japan had been the first person to descend the mountain
on skis. In 1975, Junko Tabei, also of Japan, was the first
woman to climb Everest. The first disabled person to attempt
Everest was American Tom Whittaker, who climbed with a prosthetic
leg to 24,000 feet in 1989, 28,000 feet in 1995, and finally
reached the summit in 1998. The record for most ascents
belongs to Sherpa Ang Rita, who has reached the summit ten
times.
Overall, more than 600
climbers from 20 countries have climbed to the summit by
various routes from both north and south. Climbers' ages
have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. At least 100 people
have perished, most commonly by avalanches, falls in crevasses,
cold, or the effects of thin air.
Both the Nepalese and
Chinese governments very strictly regulate climbing on Everest.
Permits cost thousands of U.S. dollars ($50,000 for a seven
member party in 1996), and are difficult to obtain, and
waiting lists extend for years. Treks to Everest base camp,
minus the summit attempt, are becoming increasingly popular
on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the
north side, a Buddhist monastery stands at the foot of the
Rongbuk Glacier, beneath Everest's spectacular north face.
The monastery is one of two whose locations were selected
specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great
peak. The other is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The
once-active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much
rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following
China's invasion of Tibet.
Mallory and Irvine:
On June 8, 1924, two members of a British expedition, George
Mallory and Andrew Irvine, attempted the summit. Famous
for his retort to the press - "because it's there"
- when asked why he wanted to climb Everest, Mallory had
already failed twice at reaching the summit. The two men
were last spotted "going strong" for the top until
the clouds perpetually swirling around Everest engulfed
them. They then vanished.
Mallory's body was not
found for another 75 years, in May 1999. No evidence was
found on his body - such as a camera containing photos of
the summit, or a diary entry recording their time of arrival
at the summit - to clear up the mystery of whether these
two Everest pioneers made it to the top before the mountain
killed them.
Hillary and Norgay:
Ten more expeditions over a period of thirty years failed
to conquer Everest, with 13 losing their lives. Then, on
May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand beekeeper, and
Tenzing Norgay, an acclaimed Sherpa climber, became the
first to reach the roof of the world. Their climb was made
from the Nepalese side, which had eased its restrictions
on foreigners at about the same time that Tibet, invaded
in 1950 by China, shut its borders.
World famous overnight,
Hillary became a hero of the British empire – the
news reached London just in time for Elizabeth II's coronation—
and Norgay was touted as a symbol of national pride by Nepal.