Ama
Dablam 22349 feet / 6812 meters
|
Fact
Box about
Ama Dablam 22494 feet / 6856 meter |
| Elevation |
22349 feet
/ 6812 meters |
| Location |
Everest
region of Nepal |
| Best for
the Climbing |
April, May,
late September, October and November |
| Year First
Climbed |
1961 March
13 via South-West Ridge |
| First Climber(s) |
Mike Gill,
Barry Bishop, Mike Ward & Wally Romanes |
| Convenient
Center(s) |
Namche Bazaar |
| Nearest
Major Airport |
Kathmandu
(minor: Lukla or Phaplu) |
| Easiest
Summit Route |
South-West
Ridge |
| Itinerary
type |
Lodge /
Camping |
| Accommodations |
Fixed /
Customized |
| Trek grade |
Strenuous |
| Total days |
30 + 6 =
36 days |
| Total royalty |
US$ 2,000
up to 7 members & additional each US$ 300 |
| Garbage
deposit |
US$ 2000
refundable |
| Air
rescue deposit
|
US$
3000.00 for a group (Refundable if not used)
|
| Air
fare
|
US$
184.00 per person to & from Lukla and extra
will be charged for over access after 20 kg each |
| Liaison
Officer charge |
US $ 1800.00
should be paid by group |
| Climbing
Guide fee |
US $ 1200.00
should be paid by group |
| For program
and price |
Mail
to: info@expeditionnepal.com
|
Contact us for:
Regular full board expedition service
up to Base Camp
Or
Your own arrange expedition if you want
Introduction
about Ama Dablam 22494 feet / 6856 meters:
Ama
Dablam (6,812m) means "Mother and her Necklace"
is best seen from Tengboche. It extends to the left to include
a west ridge with a peak of 6135m elevations, which resembles
Ama Dablam greatly. That Ama Dablam, which does not even
attain 7000m in elevation, is famous probably due to its
strange, distinctive shape as well as its visibility from
any point along Imja Khola. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression
on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning
mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base
Camp. This
expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience
in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic
diversions.
Ama Dablam is technically harder for climbing
and has it all: ice, rock, scrambling, killer views, great
approach, and a great base camp in a meadow with a stream.
The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will
be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who
have enough experience to climb one of the world's most
sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach
ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably
self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between
camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of
support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this
will maximize your chances of success without undermining
the quality of your achievement. If you have the necessary
experience and wish to participate fully as a team member
of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most
impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!
Normally, three camps are set in the
approach above the base camp (4,570m), however; only two
camps are used to spend the night. Our route will be by
the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This
gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable
level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic
points. The ascent from Base Camp to camp I is considered
one the difficult days of the expedition. You have to follow
old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then
turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders
to the ridge where camp I will be set up. From camp I, you
have to cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently
alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp
II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which
leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here
from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed
gullies of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp
and climbs to an amphitheater and then passes through steep
snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to
reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep
climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.
Experience Required:
The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the most technically
difficult expeditions. The climbers need to have good skills
on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most
parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the
climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock
and hard water ice.
Why the
South West ridge?
The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the
SW ridge, a technical route, and considered to be the standard
route. Although there are several other routes on the mountain,
they are all very much harder than the SW ridge. The route
has been considered to be a safe route, free from objective
danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and interesting
route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow
slog, unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the
hardest pitches of technical rock and ice climbing are not
sustained but tend to come in short manageable sections.
Expedition
Timing:
Our expedition takes place
during the early winter season. One of the main benefits
of this is that we avoid the congestion that occurs on the
SW Ridge during the highly popular pre and post monsoon
seasons. Having many teams on the mountain at the same time
prevents freedom of movement, causes overcrowded campsites,
increases objective dangers and reduces the quality of the
overall mountain experience.
November and December are characterized by cold but settled weather, giving
good climbing conditions and fabulous views. While temperatures
are lower than during the main climbing seasons there is
less precipitation and the skies tend to be clearer. This
is borne out by the considerable success of recent winter
expeditions to Ama Dablam.
Ama Dablam (22494 feet / 6856 meters)
expedition itinerary:
Day-01: Arrive Kathmandu, Transfer
to the Hotel & welcome dinner in the eveningn
Day 02 - 04: Stay in Kathmandu for official formalities & preparation
for the expedition
Day-05:
Kathmandu - Lukla (2860m) - fly in the morning for 45 minutes
then Commence trek to Phakding (2600m- 4 hours.
The 45-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the
most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen-seater
Twin Otter takes us east into the heart of Sherpa country,
giving us views of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including
Everest and Ama Dablam. The landing on the tiny airstrip
at Lukla is, to put it mildly, exciting.
Soon after landing, we set off along the famous trail
to Everest Base Camp. From Lukla 9,184 ft (2,800 m), we
walk northwest and descend to the river at Phakding 8,698
ft (2,652 m), where we camp for the night.
Day-06:
Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3446m) - 6½ hours.
Setting
off early in the morning, we follow the river before climbing
the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Hopefully, we get our first
views of Everest and Lhotse as we approach Namche. We reach
the town after about six hours' walking. Namche is the most
prosperous and largest settlement in the Khumbu. It is the
capital of the Sherpa population, a people who closely resemble
the Tibetans in looks and culture. Namche is a vibrant town
with many shops and several restaurants and lodges. Superb
mountain scenery makes an impressive backdrop.
We are
likely to feel breathless from the altitude, as Namche is
11,300 ft (3,445 m) above sea level. To assist acclimatization
we spend two nights here.
Day-07: Namche Bazar,
one-day rest for acclimatization.
Day-08: Namche Bazaar
- Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours.
We start the day by contouring northeast, high
above the Dudh Kosi. From early in the morning, we have
superb views of Ama Dablam as we descend through rhododendron
forest towards the river. We cross the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga
and climb to the saddle at the top of a hill. Here lies
Tengboche, the main monastery of the Khumbu
area. The monastery has recently been rebuilt following
a fire that totally destroyed it in 1989. There are panoramic
views of the main peaks of the Khumbu, including Everest,
Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We camp in Tengboche at
12,670ft (3,867m) after six and half hours walking.
Day 09: Tengboche - Base Camp
We continue up the valley towards Everest Base Camp
for about two hours before turning right up a smaller valley
which leads first to the small hamlet of Mingbo and then
to base camp, nearby. This is an idyllic spot from which
the majority of the route is visible. Base camp is at an
altitude of about 15,000ft (4,570m) and provides a comfortable
escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit
their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with
only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Liaison Officer remaining.
Day 10 - 30: Climbing period.
It is impossible to predict the exact day-by-day itinerary
for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing
groups who will work on the mountain for several days at
a time before returning for a rest at base camp. While one
group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes, another
may be carrying loads to higher camps.
A description of the route up the South
West Ridge of Ama Dablam is as follows:
Base
Camp (4950 meters) to Advanced Base camp
(5500m): Ama Dablam is one of the few
Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier.
We climb a long ridge-slope; cross a boulder field and scramble
up rock slopes to reach the SW ridge where we will place
advanced base camp. Camp
1 should now be visible just below 5,705m. At the end of
the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully
ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very
exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the
ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 5,700m. There are four or
five tent platforms.
Advanced
Base camp to Camp 1 (5700 meters):
We scramble across a large ridge system, which lies at the
head of the Mingbo valley. The slope is steep here, but
the climbing is not technical. We place our tent at the
base of a large boulder on the ridge proper.
Camp
1 to Camp 2 (5950m):
We climb along a horizontal rock ridge and around several
pinnacles (Severe, or 5.6) gaining only 100m vertical. The
exposure is huge, with especially massive drop-offs on the
north side of the ridge. The climbing is mostly enjoyable
with a good quality of granite. At the end of the horizontal
ridge we climb the Yellow Tower (two pitches Severe, or
5.5), above which we place Camp 2 on ledges and a rock pinnacle.
Camp 2 may also be a bivouac, if the limited tent spaces
are already taken.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6230 m):
A steep snow ridge is climbed to the Grey Tower,
a 20m-rock
step (Severe, or 5.6). Then 3 pitches in an ice chute are
climbed to regain the ridge and climb the second rock step
to the mushroom ridge. This is followed to the upper face
where camp 3 is made on a broad snow and rock terrace to
the side of the Dablam. Camp 3 is often a bivouac.
Camp 3 to Summit (6812m): 2 pitches of dramatic 40+
degree ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach
the fluted snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest
summits, with stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse,
Nuptse, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Himal.
The
route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp
III and to the right hand side of the Ama Dablam (there
can be hard water ice on this section). We continue to skirt
the Ama Dablam on the right side and then move westwards
to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund
is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious
ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to
the summit.
The
team needs to be back at base camp by Day 30. At this point,
the porters arrive for our return trek to Lukla.
Sample
Itinerary for the ascending Mt. Ama Dablam:
-
Walk to Base Camp (4950 meters)...6
hrs
-
Rest in Base camp or walk to Advanced
Basecamp (5500 meters), return and sleep in base camp.
- Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in
advanced Basecamp
- Explore route to camp 1 (5700 meters),
return and sleep in Basecamp.
- Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in
advanced Basecamp.
- Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.
- Explore route to camp 2 (5950 meters),
return and sleep in Basecamp.
- Relax in Basecamp.
- Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in
advanced Basecamp.
- Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.
- Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
- Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 meters),
return and sleep in Basecamp.
- Relax in Basecamp.
- Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in
advanced Basecamp.
- Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
- Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.
- Summit Attempt.
- Summit Attempt.
- Return to Basecamp.
- Pack up Basecamp, walk down to Pangboche,
sleep in tea house or
camp.
Day
31 - 33: Return back to Lukla
We retrace our steps via Thyangboche, Namche
Bazaar and Phakding to arrive back in Lukla ready for the
flight to Kathmandu.
Day
34: Fly back to Kathmandu and rest at the hotel
Day 35: Hand over the garbage and take back deposit from
government
Day 36: Depart from hotel and transfer to the Kathmandu
airport for international flight.
Note:
01:
We provide regular full board expeditions as service up
to base camp
02: We can assist if you want to organize your own
Amadablam expedition
03: You are recommended to bring necessary climbing equipment
as your own
